I don't think I even had to heat those puppies, they just un-threaded like a dream. Wouldn't you know, both bolts came out with my bare fingers, no pliers, no stud extractors required. I did use a pass-thru socket on the front-most (lower) bolt because it sits so close to the engine mount.Īfter all bolts were removed I slid the manifold over the last 2 broken bolts (one upper, one lower). I did this with only the driver's side jacked up and wheel removed so I could get under there easier. The whole disassembly took probably 2 hours.
#EXHAUST MANIFOLD LEAK FREE#
With a 3/8" ratchets and 6-point sockets, I effortlessly broke free each of the 6 bolts one at a time, in probably 20 minutes. After removing the air box I got in there with a my MAP gas torch and heated whatever bolt I was going to work on first, then sprayed it with PB Blaster, then torched it and sprayed it. I read up on the subject, then sprayed the manifold bolts heavily for 2 or 3 days with PB Blaster and let the Jeep sit. I paid $300 for the Jeep, that was not going to happen! I was pleasantly surprised that I could see and feel the tips of both broken bolts on cylinder 7 and knew they were not broken flush with the head. Originally a dealership quoted me $2,300 to do the job and an exhaust shop (recommended by a friend) told me they needed to pull the motor to do the job and it would cost $1,300-$1,500. Apparently no one could diagnose this because they kept telling him it was the injectors, which he says he replaced. A few months ago I bought a 2000 WJ (227,000 miles with about 16 New Jersey winters on it!) from my neighbor had some work done on it a couple years ago and then gave up due to a 4.7L exhaust leak (rear driver's side) causing a terrible misfire and occasional stalling at idle. Just wanted to add to this forum/thread since it's been so helpful for me. If it is an exhaust manifold leak, is there any harm in driving it until I fix it or will I damage something (besides my wife's hearing, "what's that terrible noise")? Once warmed up, the engine sounds and runs fine.
#EXHAUST MANIFOLD LEAK HOW TO#
Any other ideas what it may be?Īssuming it is the exhaust manifold, are there any good instructions on the Internet about how to remove it? Does the manifold have to be replaced or just the gasket? Removing a bunch of rusty old bolts in tight quarters doesn't sound like much fun but I can't afford to have it done, I'm retired and have the time to do it myself so why not. I guess now it's time to take the exhaust manifold heat shield off and see what's going on. I checked under the Jeep and everything looks connected to the exhaust pipe. I'm guessing that it is an exhaust manifold leak. The noise totally goes away after the engine warms up. It sounds terrible and is coming from the driver's side of the engine. It's something to keep an eye on for sure.I always had a slight ticking on cold start up but all of a sudden the slight ticking turned into loud ticking and exhaust noise. I'm hoping this is not another common issue. I'll catch up with him at a track day sometime after the first of the year. I'm not sure exactly where on the header his leak occurred. His was a Cayman S, also a 2014, and had about the same number of miles (about 67K). However, the effects were much worse in that his was on the engine side and the hot exhaust melted two coils and the ignition wiring. Interestingly, another guy at the track had an exhaust leak on the same header (driver's side) on the same same day.
I drove it probably about 2K miles with the leak, and you can see the resulting sooting from the exhaust. I didn't take the heat shield off to examine, but I suspect a broken weld. When the exhaust was cold at start-up, you could feel the puffing of the exhaust coming from the circled area and from the back side of that heat shield seam as well. The leak was coming from under the heat shield where the header pipes join before entering the cat.
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